Ohayo. Ohayo. New Jersey.

Lake Kusharo

The drive out to Nakashibetsu took us about 2 hours.  We drove through Akan National Park, the home of marimo (I could feel the little guy calling out to me).  As we exited a mountain pass, we descended upon Lake Kusharo, the largest caldera lake in Japan.  Fantastik!  Upon our arrival at our campsite about ten of us gathered to go on a hiking excursion.  We embarked on a four hour hike up the 1006 meter Masu-dake.  Interestingly, I found myself the lone American, thus a great conversation piece for the upcoming election.  We reached the top and only had about 15 minutes to chillax before booking it down the mountain before sunset…at 5:30pm.  I’m still amazed at how early the sun rises and sets here—all because of the lack of daylight savings (this certainly made for very early mornings throughout the weekend).  Afterward, we went to an onsen to wash off our grime and had a relaxing soak.  Onsens are natural hotsprings that are converted into baths and soaking pools.  Most are indoors, but they tend to have outdoor pools as well.  That night we soaked in the rotenburo (outdoor onsen) underneath the stars and nearly full moon.  I am a fan.  We returned to the camp and engaged in the debauchery of food and drink that had been in full swing.  There was yakisoba, fireworks, and sangria in martini glasses fashioned from the sawed off plastic bottle tops.  Need I say more?

The mist from Musa-dake

After a late night, I was up at 5:45am listening to someone eating cereal and the giddy excitement of camping elementary school kids.  After burning off the morning, 23 of us had a lesson in taiko drumming from the Shiretoko Taiko Troupe.  Rhythm hasn’t always been my strong suit, but I’m not completely hopeless.  I remember watching taiko when I lived in Japan back in the 80’s.  I was fascinated by it and loved the opportunity to participate for the first time.  I think my preparation in Sapporo with the taiko arcade game proved to be quite helpful.  Aside from the rhythmic factor, there was a grace of movement that was akin to martial arts.  Maybe I should just dig in to taiko and knock out my interest in a Japanese instrument and martial arts with one swoop!  Next on our list was to hit up a famous hotel onsen about 40 minutes away.  That turned out to be easier said than done.  Roads in Japan are not clearly marked and maps can only go so far.  After driving around for about an hour, we got lost and had to regroup.  Our caravan of three cars reconsidered and decided to head out to the coast.  Natsuke peninsula juts out into the Pacific Ocean and curls around much like a shrimp.  Luckily, it was pretty easy to find.  I noted to those in the car that now I’ve looked at the Pacific from “both sides now,” thank you Joni.  AND (!), we could see Russia.  From the peninsula, you can see the closest island in the “Disputed Territories,” aka Kuril Islands.  Now, I can be an expert in foreign policy (thanks Patrick)!  We witnessed an amazing sunset from the beach and watched as the full moon took its place in the sky.  After returning to the camp we decided to take another stab at finding that famous onsen.  This time, we would take a guide with us…ingenious!  After only getting a little lost (it was dark…remember the daylight hours?) we made it to the onsen.  This one had a large outdoor section with tiered pools that are flanked by a small river.  It was a clear night with a full moon.  One of the best moments in Japan yet!   We wrapped up the night kumbayah-style with some songs around a bonfire.  A great, and not at all corny, end to the night.

the beginning of a beautiful sunset

The next morning, we took the long way home and swung through Abashiri to grab some delish Nepalese food from that restaurant there that I am so fond of.  Glorious!  Food coma + late effects of onsen + camping “sleep” + social explosion = early bedtime and a great cap to a good time.